STEEL KITE SHIELD FULL

The grip and cavity behind the boss should be of such a size and position that a gloved hand may fit comfortably.The rivets securing the boss and grip to the shield must be properly finished and peened.Bosses that are pointed or have extensions are not permitted. The Shield boss must be either a steel dome or rounded cone of sufficient strength that a determined blow will not collapse it onto the hand beneath.Kite shields may have a small steel boss, even though the design made them redundant.The shield may have two vertical straps for the arm so that the arm is held horizontally over the belly when fighting, (sometimes with horizontal straps to form a rectangle), or two straps at a 45 degree angle, or straps forming an X.The top of the shield should be around the warrior’s waist height when the point is resting on the floor.The rounded top of a kite shield should have a maximum radius no bigger than 75mm (≈ 3”) past the warriors elbow and hand.It is expected that the rim will cover the entire circumference of the shield. All shields will have a protective rim made from leather or rawhide to prevent the edge from splintering.The main body or disc of a shield will be made from wood and be no thinner than 8mm.The round shield remained in use until at least 1200 – though not by fashion-conscious aristocratic warriors. At the end of the twelfth century shields grew smaller, turning into the ‘heater’ design which served well into the fourteenth century.

In the mid-twelfth century the ‘flat-top’ kite shield was very popular, a design curved to give a better fit around the body. Kite shields evolved over the course of the twelfth century and higher-status warriors (knights or well-equipped serjeants) would expect to have the most modern kit. Including bosses may have been a matter of taste, or simply a hang-over (that shields 'should' have bosses).

Kite shields may have a small steel boss, even though the design made them redundant. Padding may be attached to kite shields behind the arm, to soften the impact of blows. The arm should not be vertical down the shield. The shield may have two vertical straps for the arm so that the arm is held horizontally over the belly when fighting, (sometimes with horizontal straps to form a rectangle), or two straps at a 45 degree angle, or straps forming an X. The top of the shield should be around the warrior’s waist when the point is rested on the ground. They may be curved to fit around the body or be flat.

STEEL KITE SHIELD FULL

Kite shields should look like a full ice-cream cone, reaching a point at the bottom and with a rounded top. 3 Technical Specifications - Kite Shield.Measurements will vary slightly as these are handmade items. Care Instructions- Use of our Maintenance Silicone ensures a long weapon life and durability.Features two adjustable straps for a secure grip.Made from durable closed cell foam that does not shred.High safety rating, approved by the top organizations.A quality weapon for an affordable price.The maintenance silicone also helps the weapon resist general wear and tear from normal use. It will keep the coating flexible, extending the life of the weapon. We recommend that you use this silicone on a regular basis. We offer a 100 ml LARP Protection Gel Silicone (MCI-3722) that can be purchased separately in the LARP Accessories section. Latex items need to be maintained to a certain degree. The Ready for Battle LARP shield can be worn left-handed with the two leather arm straps on the back, secured through hard EVA foam for a reliable grip.

The foam shield is finished with golden sword heraldry and a golden rim for a striking look. The LARP shield is ideal for taking into battle. Inspired by the semi-curved shield used by the Normans from the 10th to 12th century, the Ready for Battle Sword Kite Shield will fit perfectly in the hands of knights or infantrymen.

Steel kite shield